Rock Instructor Course (RIC)

The Rock Instructor Course is the 1st step in the Rock Guide education and certification process and is designed for aspiring guides who have a strong rock climbing background and for instructors who are interested in improving their skills and increasing knowledge. The Rock Instructor Course places strong emphasis on maximizing client rewards while effectively managing risks. The Rock Instructor Course is a prerequisite to taking the Rock Guide Course and the Alpine Guide Course.

Course Area:

The Rock Instructor Course trains aspiring guides on routes up to Grade III in length and 5.9 in difficulty. Course areas include, but are not limited to, Joshua Tree National Park, Eldorado State Park, Lumpy Ridge, Crowder’s Mountain State Park, Shawangunks, and Cathedral Ledge.

Course Length:

The Rock Instructor Course is 10-days in length and is a prerequisite to taking the Rock Guide Course, and the Alpine Guide Course.

---

Prerequisites for Rock Instructor Course:

• You are a current Associate of the AMGA.
• You have at least 5 years of rock climbing experience.
• Provide a personal climbing resume showing each of the following:
• That you have led or shared lead on at least 50 different multi-pitch traditional routes,
• 5 of which should be Grade III
• 4 of which should be Grade IV or longer.
• That you have led at least 10 traditional routes rated 5.10a or harder on various rock types.
• You can safely and comfortably lead crack and face climbs rated 5.10a at the time of the course.
• You are familiar with basic knots, including: figure-8, bowline, clove hitch, munter hitch, mule-hitch, prusik, double fisherman’s and klemheist.
• You are confident with placing traditional protection including: hexes, stoppers, tri-cams, and SLCDs.
• You are comfortable using mechanical (more than two types of belay devices including auto locking devices) and non-mechanical (hip belay) belay methods.
• You are familiar with the use of plate type devices on multi-pitch rappels.
• Provide copy of current basic first aid certification or better.
• You are at least 18 years of age.

---

Skills taught and developed during the Rock Instructor Course:

• Client orientation and preparation
• Equipment and protection selection
• Time and pace management
• Alternate descending techniques
• Improvised non-mechanical ascending
• Anchor construction
• Choosing appropriate belay methods and stances
• Multi-pitch station management
• Rappelling and lowering with clients
• Multiple client guiding
• Short roping and short pitching techniques
• Belay escapes
• Performing improvised ascending methods
• Raising systems for guiding
• Hazard recognition and risk management
• Guide’s notebook
• Improvised harnesses
• Guide’s pack
• Client care
• Emergency procedures
• Pedagogy
• Leave No Trace practices and techniques
• Review of Advanced Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam assessment